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泰北千萬風情,盡在清邁古都之中
採擷北方玫瑰
 
清邁位於曼谷北方 700 公里,地處海拔 300 公尺高的山谷,有「北方玫瑰」之稱,與黏膩濕熱的曼谷相較之下,這裡顯得格外舒爽宜人。清邁是泰國的第二大城,也曾是泰國史上第一個獨立國家--藍納泰( Lanna Thai )王朝的首都、宗教、文化及貿易中心,亦保有許多的文化遺產,又有「藝術建築之寶殿堂」之稱謂。
說到清邁的歷史,就和泰族的歷史一樣古老。 1296 年,由創建清萊( Chiang Rai )城,征服舊孟國都哈瑞賁差( Haripun Chai ),今日的藍奔( Lamphun )的明萊王( King Mengrai )所建。由於夾處於泰、緬邊界,使得清邁融合了兩國的文化而形成獨特的色彩,但也由於泰緬雙方交戰不斷,使得清邁飽受戰火之苦,至今清邁建城雖已 700 年,可惜許多古蹟卻多有殘破。話說 1558 年,緬甸王勃固( Pegu )大舉入侵泰國,使清邁一度淪入緬甸人手中,而蘭納泰的大部分地區也因此被緬甸人統治了 200 年,直到 1776 年後才光復。但這時的清邁卻像個廢墟般地被遺棄達 20 年之久。直到 1796 年泰皇拉瑪一世重振這個城市,並命南邦王之子以半自治的型態統治至 19 世紀末期,清邁方能回復繁華的氣息。
 
喜馬拉雅山末端形成的山脈丘陵環抱著清邁,使得它與外世隔絕。早期清邁與曼谷間少有聯絡,往返須藉由艱困的河上航行或騎著大象翻山越嶺,花上數個星期才能抵達。不過,正由於這樣的遺世獨立,使得當地的許多傳統文化、建築、服裝,乃至於美食、工藝,至今仍有一分與泰國中南部截然不同的風貌,而顯得魅力十足。
造訪清邁這個泰國「香格里拉」,應該到街上四處走走,沿街傳統的商店有著早期 5 、 60 年代的台灣風情,使人心生親切。今日的清邁人口大約 150 萬左右,市中心是位於重建過的塔佩門東邊的塔佩路,特別是加崙巴特路( Charoen Prather Road )和昌康路( Chang Klan Road )附近,旅館、客棧和商店四處林立。若想看看現代化的時髦住宅區、清邁大學及新旅館,可以行至往素帖山的惠郜路( Huay Kaeo Road )上。站在素帖山上,可以俯視整個清邁城,現代化的高樓大廈、古色古香的寺廟、林蔭遮蔽的小街 ...... 皆映入眼簾。

 


不必舟車勞頓騎大象,火車巴士飛機都可通

*航空( By Air )
可搭乘長榮 (02-25011999) 、荷航 (02-27722188) 、泰航 (02-25096800) 等班機,由台北直飛曼谷之後,再轉搭國內班機抵達清邁。或搭乘華航 (2715-1212) 直飛清邁。
泰國航空曼谷,電話: (662) 2800070 、 2800080 、清邁機場,電話: (6653) 211044~7
安琪航空清邁機場,電話: (6653) 270222~34 Ext. 2281 、 2295~7 。
P. B. Air 清邁機場,電話: (6653) 279172 、 319278~9 、 922136 。

*汽車( By Car )
從曼谷開車出發至清邁需 9 個小時的車程,沿 1 號公路、再接亞洲 32 號公路,經大城府、安通府、那空沙旺府,再回 1 號公路,經南邦府、南彭府即可抵達清邁市區,總長約 696 公里。途中有許多小鎮可以安排遊覽,如彭世洛( Phitsanulok )、素可泰( Sukhothai )、南邦( Lamphun )等。

*巴士( By Bus )
從曼谷到清邁,每天早上 5:20 至晚上 22:00 ,有巴士可到清邁 ( 可選擇 Vip 巴士、冷氣巴士或普通巴士 ) 。可由 Phaholyothin 路的北上巴士站(靠近札都甲 (Jatujak) 假日市場)上車。有關細節請洽曼谷: (662) 5378055~6 、清邁: (6653) 241449 、 304748 。網址: www.transport.co.th 。

*火車( By Train )
從曼谷到清邁的火車票必須在事前至曼谷火車站預購,每天有快車、特快車班次,平日營業時間為 8:30~18:00 ,假日僅到 12:00 。有關細節請洽曼谷: (662) 2237010 、 2237020 、清邁: (6653) 242094 、 245363~4 。或查詢鐵路局網站 www.railway.co.th ; www.thailandrailway.com 。

*市區交通篇
遊覽清邁如果沒有旅行團巴士可坐,清邁並不像曼谷有多種交通運輸可選擇,因此可以利用市區不同交通工具,馳騁於市區之間:
 三輪車 (Saam-Lor) - 短程費用約 $ 20~30 泰幣,長程費用約 $ 40~50 泰幣。是逛市區最好
            的選擇。
 嘟嘟車 (Tuk-Tuk) - 在市區內,嘟嘟車的價格不如其他傳統交通工具穩定,但是速度也快
           許多, $ 20 泰幣左右只能坐一小段。一般若越過河區的話,價格會
           到 $ 40 泰幣以上。
 四輪車 (See-Lor) - 清邁最普遍、也是最合適的交通工具,隨處可見到它們的蹤跡。紅色
          車身,屬於 " 公共 " 計程車,坐四輪車,只要告知司機你要去的地方
          ,如果他點頭同意,每人每次只要在下車時付 $10 泰幣即可。
 

 


清邁城對美食家而言可謂是如魚得水的快樂天堂,這裡供應了亞洲和歐洲所有主要菜系的成套佳餚。如傳統的北方菜裡有一種叫做 " 勘托克 (Khantok)" 的菜系,包括咖哩、炸雞、醬汁、炸脆豬皮和野菜,吃來十分的可口。而遊客們就餐的選擇就更多了,中、泰、法、西、日式應有盡有,而儘管大海遠在 700 公里之外,您仍可在河畔的海鮮館嚐到活蹦亂跳的海產,而法式餐廳裡則供應了法國麵包、餡餅等最正宗的法國家常菜。此外,清邁還有數家類似英國倫敦格拉布街的正宗酒吧,這些美食佳餚都值得您逐一品嚐哦!

 


吃喝玩樂應注意事項,旅遊備忘盡在錦囊中
*清邁夜市
這裡大概是清邁最熱鬧的地方了,原只是昌康路( Chang Klan Road )的一群攤販,因附近旅館林立,得地利之便,現已成為固定上有棚架、路邊攤販雲集的夜市,販售各式各樣的廉價品,每天晚上都有,從日落到晚間 11 點。大部分的當地特產都可在這兒買到,如木雕、漆器、銀器、古董、香腸、各式服飾、水果和點心,一應俱全。

*購物( Shopping )
清邁是泰國主要高品質手工藝品製作中心,遊客只要前往市區商場或夜市就可以買到製作精美的古物、銀飾品、高山部落族鴉片煙管、及刺繡、泰絲、棉製品、織籃、青瓷、銀器、家具、漆器、木雕及紙傘等。
在清邁購物的最大好處是遊客可以在市區或其他村鎮觀賞到工匠實際工作狀況,特別是在博桑~山甘烹的路上的農村,可觀賞到紙傘、泰絲、棉織物、珠寶、木雕、銀器、青瓷、漆器的製作過程,其中許多製品都非常受歡迎。

*活動 & 節慶( Festival )
 清邁花季:在 2 月,會有美麗豐富的花車遊行於街道上。
 潑水節:從 4 月 13-15 ,有莊嚴的宗教儀式和潑水活動。
 水燈節: 11 月,泰國人將木船做成蓮花狀,放在水中或溪上漂流,同時將清香的花和香
      柱、蠟燭或是一枚硬幣放在船中,表示對水神虔誠的敬意,也將前 一年所犯
       的過錯洗滌乾淨。
 塔歪木雕節: 1 月,會舉行木雕展、木雕比賽及木雕品、當地手工藝品販售,民俗 表演
        、木雕遊行等活動。
 清邁美食節: 12 月,清邁美食節的時候可享受到豐盛的泰式佳餚,還有果雕及傳統美食
        及蘭納文化表演,時間為每天 16:00 至 23:00 。
 

 


*參考網站 (Internat)
1. 泰國飯店: www.hotelthailand.com 、 www.thaihotels.org

2. 旅遊網站: www.tat.or.th 、 www.sawadee.com 、 www.chiangmai-chiangrai.com

3.Golf 網站: www.tga.or.th

*當地緊急協助單位與實用電話指南( Useful Telephone )

旅遊服務專線

觀光警察:拿起電話直撥 1155 ,有英、德、法三種語文
24
小時或直撥旅客服務中心 1672 ,時間從 0800-2000

青年旅遊服務中心

電話: (02) 694-1222 1781-90

泰國觀光局清邁辦事處

電話: (053) 248-604

駐泰國台北經貿辦事處

20F, Empire Tower, 195, Sathon Tai Rd., Bangkok

電話: (02) 670-0228  傳真: (02) 670-0229


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